Rule 0 still exists. This is meant to help give a quick distinction for playing in “untrusted groups” where you don’t know what other people consider a “7.” You can state clearly that by the brackets, your deck is considered a 3, but also mention that it plays out more powerfully, like a 4.
For most players, this is a pretty helpful guide:
1 is for your jank and meme decks. It’s not designed to be strong, it’s just to do something funny.
2 is for precon level decks. Not awful, but definitely not optimized. A number of budget decks and pet decks may fit in here.
3 is for your good decks, but with the caveat that they’re not full of the salt-inducing “game changers” or Mass Land Destruction or 2-card combos that go off turn 2.
4 is for your best non-CEDH decks. Push it as far as you want, understanding that other people at the table likely did the same
5 is for CEDH. If you don’t know what that is, you’re not playing a 5, just a powerful 4.
I know that most of my decks are 2s, or a 3 with 1-2 Game Changers. None that would really be 4s, but sometimes I can play them at a 4-level table and still luck out into a win.
Rule 0 still exists. This is meant to help give a quick distinction for playing in “untrusted groups” where you don’t know what other people consider a “7.” You can state clearly that by the brackets, your deck is considered a 3, but also mention that it plays out more powerfully, like a 4.
For most players, this is a pretty helpful guide:
I know that most of my decks are 2s, or a 3 with 1-2 Game Changers. None that would really be 4s, but sometimes I can play them at a 4-level table and still luck out into a win.