Arch isn’t too hard with the AUR offering packages that said I only stuck out with Manjaro. They had a GUI to help with the install.

I personally wouldn’t advise using it if you are new to Linux. I use Linux Mint and it’s been amazing for my work load. (Cad video editing and games.)

While the safe bet with Linux is AMD, it’s not like Nvidia or Intel are bad options for Linux. (,running RTX 3050 and 12100f).

It just depends on your platform and how comfortable you are with tinkering.

From my testing, Ubuntu based, is the easiest to get up and running while Fedora and arch can take a bit of work.

For my recommendation, look at the games you wanna run and see what they recommend for hardware. An in general safe bet, 12th gen Intel i3/i5 or 3rd gen Ryzen is a good bet for cheap hardware still in stock in stores or online. Upgrade is good (12-14th on the same socket & 1-5th gen Ryzen on the same socket).

Graphics cards works on both, and AmD and Nvidia works on Linux, though Nvidia is behind on support, but not by much games will be stable.

I’ve use metal watch bands for years instead of silicone. Current one was for my Pebble time I got from Fossil and it’s still going strong.

I personally use a metal watch band for myself. I react poorly to p/leather and silicone and I’ve used a watch band I first got as a substitute for my Pebble Time. Might be from Fossil, but any old stainless steel metal band works for me.

Ditto, but I don’t exercise as much as they do so I assume its longevity is based off of how much you sweat.

Pro: Price, Convenience, Looks

Cons: Much like buying an “iPhone” from Temu, the price is usually reflected in the quality.

Don’t get me wrong, there are cheep smart watches if you look for them or go second hand. But what you’ll find advertised on Temu isn’t it.

Build quality is usually the first to suffer, but you’ll find mislabeled battery info a 500mah instead of the promised 1000mah. Or an LCD instead of an OLED.

But those are things we can adapt too. The biggest problem is software. That’ll do and close enough has been the name of the game for years now. And sometimes “smart” just means it can (badly) track your steps and pretend to check your heart rate with a led pretending to be a sensor.

Alternative

If you are looking for any budget electronics try looking for last years or a few years ago models. I got a Garmin Forerunner 235 in 2022 for 1/5 of its asking price because I found a deal on eBay.

I’d also look into the landscape of the market you are buying into and seeing who is actually making these things, and what is running on it.

For smart watches I found the answer was

Apple

Android with Watch OS (Samsung google and many more)

Garmin

If the watch isn’t running android watch os or is made by Apple or Garmin. Assume its good too be true and look into it more, or look elsewhere.

Good news China is lazy and one clone usually is made by many factories and someone else made a video about it. Might not be the same name, but it’ll be close enough.

It’s fun to zoom in on the GameCube icon on the controller spool. At 4K it doesn’t look like there will be detail, but there is.

I happy to hear there shape are unique enough to recognize their wireframe. I was a bit worried that they were a bit too generic.

Fun part, since I’ve made each stylus for each system, the icons are all unique. There shouldn’t be (I hope) duplicates.

Honestly since the New 3DS screen is so small, the slight blurring is negligible to my eyes. So long as there isn’t certificating in the image, like shimmering and or screen tearing, I don’t noticed it.

My first system I could call my own (not sharing with siblings) was the fat Nintendo DS. It will always be my favourite out of nostalgia.

But my primary DS is my New 3DS, does everything want and plays everything.

For me the DS is the Pokemon machine, from the mainline series to the spin offs. Such a good time to be a fan of Pokemon. Even the knockoffs were fun like Fossil fighters.

The DS was also a good rpg power house the first system I beat Chrono Trigger on.

Then there was the slog of platformers, from new Mario bros, to license of game dubious quality, nicktoons unite anyone?

The 3DS was just an overall disappointment in comparison, game selection was limited and 3rd parties just didn’t give it the time of day. Don’t get me wrong love my 2d Zelda and Metroid revivals on it, but outside of Nintendo games, it didn’t offer me anything.

I love Emulation since it can be on completely different ends of the spectrum. On the one hand you have ROM collections on modern system, like Capcom Arcade Stadium, or TMNT Cowabunga Collection.

On another you have complete reverse engineering project like PCSX-Reloaded, and community developed emulators with retail games are based on, all open sourced and technically legal, so long as you have the hardware, and tools to back the ROMs, BIOS’s, and other material required.

Then you have the complete black market, where the ROMs are illegally obtained, the BIOS’s are just downloaded from a random server, and the emulators are paying to get access to the latest retail games patches like Yuzu.

All 3 of these interact and play off of each other, like arcade collections using MAME, being able to extract the ROMs from collections to use in emulators, and Nintendo using someone else’s ROM dump of their own game for Wiiware. That it’s just interesting that emulation works at all.

I personally love it, and try my best to get my ROMs, ISO, and BIOS’s without resorting to downloading it.

Why you shouldn’t buy FO4 on GOG: On Linux it’s a bit more work, installing the game via steam it’s just one button and you are good. GOG you need a third party game manager like Heroic or Lutris. From there you can add it to steam, you’ll also want to download art as the ones provided by lutris are low res.

You’ll also have a hard time with online saves as you’ll need to also install GOG galaxy, which isn’t fun and is very buggy.

That said, from an application perspective, it’s running on Proton regardless, so it’ll run the same. And since the folders are easier to find (more structured like windows), I personally find modding in general easier.

The reason you want to buy the GOG version is that it’s drm free and yours to keep. No launcher required. Not something you’d care about on a steam deck, but on a PC it’s nice to have.

Depends on usage. If I have 2 hands available Firefox, u lock Origin is a must on a modern web. But if I need one hand free for… let’s say holding an umbrella, then cromite, based on the chrome fork based off of bromite. As much as I don’t like chrome, on Android it’s the only browser that has gestures, which makes one handed usage perfect. Cromite, just has adblockers built int and lacks many of the tracking stuff too.

I prefer GOG but not enough to not buy from Steam. And each store has its pros and cons.

As a single player gamer, I love the DRM free nature of GOG, especially for classic games like Rollercoaster Tycoon or SimCity 3000. I have older PCs lying around and being able to play my games on them is very very nice.

On the other hand, updating my game is a chore and GOG Galaxy while cool isn’t polished, and very buggy especially only Linux via Wine. I wouldn’t even consider online multiplayer games unless it had its own server.

Compared to Steam which works with Linux by default, no Lutris or Bottles configuring to get games to work. Updates are seamless and online multiplayer is built into the client. Let alone remote play, steam families, big picture, and all the other features it does.

My only gripe with Steam is the GIANT question mark on what happens to my games when they pull support. I mean I can’t even play my older games any more on my old Windows 7 machine, and its not like Fallout 3 is getting updates.

So my priority is thus: GOG then Steam, if its single player and the price is similar (±$10). Steam then GOG if it makes sense or I need steam features (I.e. I got Stardew Valley on Steam since my SO has it there too and we can play together). Finally if the game is around $5 get it on either, or maybe both if I like the game.

The brillants of Creality’s printers both the Ender 3 and 5, is that they use off the shelf parts. From its heatbed to its nozzle and stepper motors.

Which means that if something breaks or wears out, a replacement is $0.20 from Amazon.

The problem with Creality is quality control. Everything that I bought from Creality either broke in a few months, needed upgrades or came broken from factory. This isn’t just their printers its their laser cutters too.

However because they break they are excellent learning printers. While it may be tempting to print the biggest thing, I would advise a smaller printer like the Ender 3. It was hard to level 200mm leveling 350mm won’t be easy.

That said I think which printer you get should depend on what you want to do with it.

If you are more interested in modeling and cad design than a low maintenance printer like a Prusa would be best.

If you want to tinker with the printer itself: then an Ender is perfect since you can break it to your hearts content and fix it yourself.

Otherwise you don’t know: get the cheapest recommended printer around $350-$400 and use it til it breaks. Either you’ll know what you want or break it and you’ll get a good idea on what type of printer you need.

@madewithlayers and @makersmuse on YouTube is a good starting point

Not here. More annoyed about them on side walks than bike lanes.

Hey my old monitor setup isn’t here.

Main display is normal with a laptop underneath, a vertical display to the left with a laptop display on the bottom under the first monitor

I miss Pebble. ePaper Display, week long battery life, and I can see all my phones notifications and reply to texts on the watch itself.

Made my old phone with bad battery life usable.

Garmin is the only “smart watch”/fitness tracker that does this and does it well. Wish it wasn’t as pricy for the week long battery devices.

Yup, 4am wake up wasn’t fun.